the sun is burning on your skin and the air is filled with salty water. Your eyes are fixed upon the board while your whole body is under tension...
only some seconds left...
you can hear the rush of the waves behind you coming closer... your heart starts to beat faster and you attempt to concentrate and to only focus on the board underneath you...
you can do it...
it is the quiet before the storm...
another breath...another heartbeat ... and then you accelerate...
NOW...
with one strong movement you push yourself up into the air, your feet finding the right balance on the board, the wind striking your cheeks, your body loosening up, your heart filling up with joy and happiness....
and just like that you succeeded to ride the wave....
this is freedom.
this is love.
this is life.
1 comment:
I can feel it! I want to rush out of the city and try it myself.. Hope you are having a great time shawty:)
Post a Comment